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Author Topic: TT swapped z addition  (Read 2279 times)
niky
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« Reply #15 on: January 12, 2017, 02:37 PM »

Quote from: Tzak

Well, the z is stored in the garage for the winter now. It ended up being a bad turbo seal so I upgraded a few things while I was at it.

AshSpec Massive 2.5" SMIC V3
AshSpec 2.5" Intercooler Charge Pipe Kit
AshSpec 2.5" Planar Turbo Intake Inlet Pipe Kit

Rob'Z Billet 62mm Throttle Bodies w/ CZP Throttle Body Gasket, 62mm for RobZ Throttle Bodies

Garrett 300ZX GT2860R (Disco Potato) Ball Bearing Turbo Kit

Nistune Type 2 board w/ Nistune Consult usb cable + license

Specialty Z 3" 4-bolt downpipe

Innovate Motorsports dual fuel/air wideband gauge

It's only got a base map set up at the moment as Top Shelf has had tuner problems and wasn't able to get my z dyno tuned before I needed to have it stored away from the salt on the roads.

I'm hoping to have it up and running this summer though. I'm a bit curious what sort of numbers it'll generate on a pump gas tune although I did pick up the flex fuel option with the Nistune board as well...


You'll see some good numbers out of those turbos. ( I also have the same pair of Disco Potatos)
I'm not done with tuning yet either...
but I managed 401HP at the rear wheels at 10psi on pump gas....
and around 450ish at the rear wheels at 15psi, being pretty conservative.
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Trbulnt
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« Reply #16 on: January 17, 2017, 02:28 PM »

Very nice setup!!  I look forward to seeing the tuning results.
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FNG Motorsports
'85 - 300ZX
'14 - Nismo Juke
'17 - Porsche Macan
Tzak

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« Reply #17 on: April 19, 2017, 01:41 PM »

I'll be taking it down to Chicago in either June or July to have it dyno tuned by Harry Sandhu. It should be a fun time I think. I'm really looking forward to seeing what the results will be.

I've been told a few different things about what I should be running in regards to oil however. With this current setup and stock internals is it still alright to be running a 10w30 or for this state's summer would it be wiser to switch to a 20w40 perhaps? I had read a couple articles and been told anything from 10w30 to 20w40 or even 20w50 and was a bit uncertain.
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niky
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« Reply #18 on: April 19, 2017, 02:29 PM »

Quote from: Tzak

I've been told a few different things about what I should be running in regards to oil however. With this current setup and stock internals is it still alright to be running a 10w30 or for this state's summer would it be wiser to switch to a 20w40 perhaps? I had read a couple articles and been told anything from 10w30 to 20w40 or even 20w50 and was a bit uncertain.

With OEM bearing clearances, you should be running 10w30.

My recommendation would be Full Synthetic Valvoline.


You won't ever need to change oil viscosity unless you rebuild and run different bearing clearances.
(For Example: My mains and rods are clearanced loose (+.0015" for both), so I run a high zinc content 20w40)
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Tzak

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« Reply #19 on: April 19, 2017, 03:25 PM »

Good to know as that's what I've been using. What's your take on this post by the way? http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2369744/What-weight-engine-oil.html
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niky
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« Reply #20 on: April 20, 2017, 02:25 PM »

Oil Weight/Brand is something that I take [probably] more serious then I should.

So as to not get myself going off on a tangent, I'll try to keep it short and sweet.

99.9% of engine bearing wear happens in the first few seconds after starting the car, while the oil pressure is building.
There's no way around it, since the oil pump runs off of the crankshaft, and you need to spin the engine to create oil pressure.

There are, however, ways to reduce start-up wear.
Engine oil has additives to promote adhesion to the metal surfaces to minimize this effect.
(think of that lucas display in the parts store, where you can see the oil sticking to the gears better)

Historically, Zinc was the preferred additive, and it did it's job very well.
Now, most oil manufacturers are switching from Zinc to something else, to comply with tightening emissions regulations.
Some are better then others.

In a nut-shell:
Avoid Mobil 1 and Royal Purple.

Valvoline is my preferred brand, but AMSoil is probably the best out there.... and I have no beef with Castrol.

The other thing to consider is that oil degrades over time.... which is why you need to change oil at regular intervals.
The main 2 reasons for oil breakdown are:
1. Heat (like in a Z32 TT with a 4.5qt oil pan with two turbos cooking away) and
2. Contamination (oh... like say fuel from a turbo car that likes rich AFR's)

This is why I personally choose Valvoline over AMSoil in my Z.
It's cheaper, and if you replace it regularly (every 3k miles MAX) ((I change every 2k)) it doesn't have a chance to break down.

It makes more sense to me from a cost/benefit standpoint to change oil every 2k-3k miles vs paying more and stretching out oil changes to ... let's just say 5k miles.

I think AMSoil claims it's good for up to 10k miles but I would never bet my engine on it.







...ok... so maybe it wasn't all that short.
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Tzak

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« Reply #21 on: September 14, 2017, 10:19 AM »

Are there any reputable places that deal with Z32's with a Nistune setup in this state that any of you would recommend? My plans fell through with the tuner I had originally been trying to get my Z over to.
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Trbulnt
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« Reply #22 on: September 18, 2017, 09:03 PM »

Yes.  The person that posted above you is a very good nistune tuner and I have access to a chassis dyno.   I'll message you my phone number. 

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FNG Motorsports
'85 - 300ZX
'14 - Nismo Juke
'17 - Porsche Macan
niky
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« Reply #23 on: September 19, 2017, 09:53 AM »

Yes, as Chris mentioned, I do Nistune!
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